chris altman

This is were you can keep up with Chris's adventures in Cambodia. You can read each day's entries below, and look to the archive for previous posts. You can also click on the photos to see the rest of todays pictures...

Monday, March 21, 2005

Old-Auntie


Old-Auntie
Originally uploaded by honeybeealtman.
Hello, Liesel here.
Back with the living again. The trip finally caught up with us. Bill, Chris and I caught a stomach bug and we have been living at the hotel in Battambang the last day and a half. I had it the worst and was knocked out in bed. Bill was able to make brief soujourns out of the hotel, and Chris was less afflicicted and took care of us both. Luckily, we came well stocked with our prescriptions. This is par for the course considering the myriad of foods we have been eating.

The day off in bed was a well-needed rest from our daily routine which was starting to take a real toll on everyone. Battambang has been all family, all the time. It has been truly wonderful, witnessing Amy connect with so many blood relatives who have welcomed her with such warmth, love and affection. Today, Amy gave the relatives the gifts we had brought from the U.S. Special thanks to my Aunt Penny, who packed my suitcase with added little items, like colorful stickers and pens which were a big hit and helped extend our loot for the many relatives who kept appearing during the visit.

Amy documented the family tree and Bill took photos of each family group (father, mother, children). We soon learned no photo could have three people. One, two, four or more, but not three, bad luck. In drawing out the family tree, it was sad to learn about the number of relatives who died during Pol Pot. This is a subject we have not treaded near, but did emerge during a conversation with cousin, Sok Im (pronounced Eem) not to be confused with Sokkim. As Amy continued drawing the family tree we asked about Sok Im’s family. She stated that her brother had disappeared in 1980. With this brief bit of information, our question had opened the door for Sok Im to let loose. As with most of our visits, there were multiple conversations going on in the room (just like home) and Sophal was translating another sideline question. Whatever Sok Im needed to get off her chest, she did, and ten minutes later she was still going, at this point sharing her conversation with other cousins across the room. Maybe we will learn what Sok Im shared in a future conversation.

The relatives live in a small village, called Tumal Gul (I am botching the spelling) about 35 km north of Battambang,. The drive door to door from our hotel to Sokkim’s takes about a half hour. The distance does not allow us the autonomy to come back to the hotel for a midday rest which makes for a very long day. Although Sokkim lives in a modern concrete house with light fixtures she does not have electricity at the moment, which makes dinner and evening socializing a bit hampered.

We go out to Tamal Gul in the morning, eat lunch and then rest on sleeping mats. Chris described the oven-like effect of the concrete house vs. the airy wood house, so our rests have not exactly been restful. Which leads me to speak about the heat. April is the hottest month of the year. We knew that coming in March would be hot, but with each day the temperature is exponentially hotter. I am not exaggerating. Celsius is not used as a gauge either. When we ask if it is 33, 34, perhaps 35 they shrug their shoulders. No measurement is needed or necessary, in Cambodia it is either hot or hotter. I have a prickly heat rash all over my hands that erupts at the hottest part of the day. I am consuming water constantly and we are rationing our packets of Emergency C powder which adds salt, and electrolytes to the replenishment mixture.

Tomorrow we head back to Phnom Penh. We said our goodbyes to the family this afternoon. Amy stayed behind to have dinner with the family this evening. Sokkim and Kry will go with us to the city until our plane departure next Thursday. I can not write anymore, I am past my saturation point and hunger pangs call.

Goodnight for now.

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